Something From Anything

Entries from April 2009

Food Ethics Rant

April 24, 2009 · 1 Comment

A few months ago, I talked to someone I cooked for about food ethics. The lady in question had a very interesting perspective on meat and dairy consumption. She said, she eats meat, but does not consume any dairy. Why? Because dairy animals have to endure a long time of suffering while animals that are reared for meat tend to have a short life with less suffering – especially if you buy free range stuff.
Food ethics are a hairy issue. The newspapers, magazines and TV programmes are full of stories about what to eat and what not to eat – not necessarily for health reasons, but to help the planet. I recently came across a string of articles telling people to stop eating all fish and seafood no matter how good they are for you.

So how does Somethingfromanything deal with this?

Most of the time, I eat vegetarian (not vegetarians!). That means: no meat or fish, but occasionally I have gelatine-containing sweets and my mum insists I should have fish twice a year which she cooks for me (usually steamed whole trout with potatoes, horse-radish sauce and butter). There are ethical, financial, vanity-related and snobbery -related reasons for this.

Ethical, because I think if you want to eat meat, you should be able to raise and kill ‘it’ yourself and not have it produced for you by the Meatrix. I used to work next to a slaughterhouse and see the cute little piglets getting driven in at around 5am in the morning (I know, a very girly reason!). I even went into one once to collect something – not nice, although the people were very nice to me. At most workplaces, I’ve had to prepare meat. I don’t mind it as long as I do not have to buy and eat it. Ironically, quite a few of my meat-eating co-workers find raw meat revolting so that I sometimes ended up being the ‘meat specialist’ – usually up to my elbows in blood from intestines to prepare traditional English fare (e.g. liver and bacon, steak and kidney pie – another note about that later)… I have to confess I quite revelled in the shock effect on my fellow cooks! Also, handling raw meat has something strangely spiritual about it. After all, you are handling the remains of a living being that is going to feed you. I wonder if more people felt like that, would meat become less of a casual commodity that some people eat several times a day without thinking?
The thing I’m actually most worried about when it comes to food is over-fishing. I have a friend who researches this stuff and the statistics are indeed scary. And I bet a lot of this fish goes to waste or stupid purposes like pet food. And those fishing practices! I also don’t like seafood related decadence. The food that is now used to display status such as caviar, oysters and lobsters (and this is not only applicable to sea food) used to be the food of the very poor. I also find it offensive when people eat certain meats because it’s tradition. Of course, I mean turkey. Turkey’s are such cool and eccentric animals – why do you need to eat them? Every year, people complain how awfully rubbery and dry the meat is, no matter what you do with it. Don’t buy it, for God’s sake! Make a fake turkey – it’s much more fun anyway!

Many people are vegans for ethical reasons. I find this diet hard to maintain at a reasonable cost and effort, especially if you eat as much as I do (I have a very fast metabolism), although I do agree that it’s a good thing if you can keep it up. What I sometimes have a problem with are vegans who aggressively try to convert you to veganism – usually while smoking unethically sourced and marketed cigarettes and talking about their political activities in various exotic countries they flew to. A more comical annoyance is vegans unexpectedly turning up at birthday parties pointing at every cake on the buffet asking ‘is this vegan’? Come on, what are the chances? Dream on! It’d be like me going to a Mongolian barbecue asking if any of this was vegetarian! I do have to say that I know some very nice vegan cakes based on medieval recipes. Expensive to make though under modern supply conditions (spelt flour, honey, nuts etc). Must dig them out to drool over them!

Financial, because it’s cheaper to eat veg than meat – although sometimes meat can be scarily cheap (unlike meat substitutes)! I have to say that most of the time, I get any kind of vegetables from the market – sometimes they ain’t that nice, but I can make them nice with a little tweaking. I pay attention to seasonal foods (they tend to be cheaper anyway), but sometimes I get confused. Luckily, the market guy knows his stuff and my shopping habits. I would like to buy all organic (and fairtrade) food, but that’s usually out of my reach unless the market guy happens to have some, or I find it in the ‘reduced to clear’ pile, or friends give me leftovers from their ‘organic boxes’. I’ve heard that there is cheaper organic food somewhere, I don’t think in my part of London. Apparently having it delivered is getting affordable, but I like independence from deliveries. I tried growing some food myself, but that worked out more expensive and was pretty laborious on a mostly shady balcony (not to mention lugging 50kg bags of compost around on only a bicycle!). And where is the compost ‘mined’ from, anyway? Sometimes, I am annoyed when vegetarian food is more expensive than the meat. Even at MacDonald’s and Subway, the vegetarian sandwich is never on special offer and always more expensive than the cheapest meat option. I know, it’s the freak option in these businesses, but hey, it’s just a burger bun with some reconstituted potato et al. Dairy is also expensive (I guess it should be), especially cheese, so I don’t have it a lot. If I buy cheese, I try to buy small amounts of non-cow cheese (I like to think that non-cows live happier lives). Most of the time, it’s goat’s cheese, because cheese from sheep or buffalo milk is even more out of my reach. And I don’t think they do horse-milk stuff in this country. The occasions where you find this kind of stuff in the reduced-to-clear pile are very rare – and you have to go to places like Waitrose, and I think I recall all of them, because of the nice taste of the stuff – although goats milk can be pretty harsh if you don’t consume it regularly. Buffalo milk tastes a bit musty like milk fresh from a cow (had that on several occasions as a kid), Ewe’s milk cheddar was nice and subtle and the French goat’s cheese was absolutely delicious, although it’s nowhere near as nice as the (actually pretty cheap) stuff you get in French supermarkets. Talking of vegetarian food in France: it’s not easy to find, but if you do find it, it’s the best you will ever have! Even if it has weird names like algae-tofu burgers.

Vanity-related, because I get really bad skin from meat. And I mean: teenage acne strength bad!

Snobbery-related, because while I am quite partial to fish, I know that the only way it tastes good is when it comes straight out of the water. The only way you can get this in London is when you fish your own in a pond somewhere – and that’s somewhere between boring and disturbing (unless you really have no money) or if you are really really rich and decadent. Ah, and you can also try fishing in the Thames for the ultimate Simpsons experience… although it’s apparently improved. Check out this rather interesting article on commercial fishing in the Thames!
And meat-wise… as a kid, I ate quite a lot of meat, though mostly non-cooked meat like tongue lunch meat and mince meat mixed with spices and onions, which are both eaten on bread, but also typical children’s favourites like chicken nuggets and other reconstituted crap. Now, the only meat I could imagine eating is wild boar. It was my favourite hot meat (juicy, but not fat and earthy, but not too musty), and in Germany, there are so many of these critters (due to people planting too much corn which the boars love to eat) that it’s practically ethical to eat them, because they destroy the forests, the fields, inner city parks and gardens (imagine waking up to that!) and also you if you’re in the way! ;) We used to have a cheap supply of the dead beasts, not because of roadkill, but because a few people in my family were rangers and hunters. The disadvantage was that you got a whole animal delivered which usually ended up in our bathtub, because it was so big. You had to then go to your neighbour’s, ask for a wood axe or meat cleaver, get rid of the parts you did not know what to do with in the (= my) baby bathtub – and hack and sometimes saw the rest into pieces that would fit into the freezer. I still remember the sawing noises, the axes and both kitchen and bathroom being full of blood and vessels containing blood and body parts. Yum! You know now why I laugh at mere liver and bacon preparation, even if it’s for a whole canteen full of people!

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Food For Thought

April 23, 2009 · Leave a Comment

I came across an electronic book today called ‘Foodstuff’. It was published by the UK think tank Demos (you can download it for free from their website) and has a pretty varied content & perspectives (plenty to agree and disagree with). Thought it might interest some readers. Here is what’s in the book:

Part 1. Understanding food culture

Too rich, too thin? – Felipe Fernández-Armesto
Slow down: The return to local food – Carlo Petrini
Food is not fuel – Geraldine Bedell
The spice of life? – David Lammy
Social service – Terence Conran
On the menu: why more choice isn’t better – Rebecca L Spang

Part 2. Food politics, risk and trust

Hot potatoes: politicians, food and risk – John Gummer
Farming today: food science and subsidy – Chris Haskins
Gut reaction: the real risks of food poisoning – Hugh Pennington
Cultivating trust – Renate Künast
‘Big Food’: politics and nutrition in the United States – Marion Nestle

Part 3.Well-being and social outcomes

Barbecue of the vanities: nutritional advice since the Renaissance – Steven Shapin
Working on the food chain gang – Jeanette Longfield
Getting better: food in the NHS – Loyd Grossman
Recipe for peace: the role of nutrition in social behaviour – Bernard Gesch
Urban agriculture in Australia: local food, global communities – John Brisbin
People – the missing ingredient – Daniel Miller

Part 4. Global hunger

The rich diet, and the poor go hungry – Clare Short
The politics of the empty belly – Alex de Waal
Feast and famine – James Erlichman
‘To them that hath…’: how world trade policies undermine poor producers – Barbara Stocking

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Recent experiments…

April 22, 2009 · Leave a Comment

#1 Corn bread

Here we actually have a formation of corn pancakes – as my last visitors had gobbled up all the golden syrup, a darker German sugarbeet syrup was used to stick the mutated disks together. My initial idea was to try to recreate the lovely corn bread I had at a place called ‘M&M Soul Food Cafe’ in Las Vegas (if you ever get to go there, check out their banana pudding and home made lemonade). They were very fluffy, a bit like Scotch pancakes (as in Scottish, not the alcohol), but tasted of corn. I did an internet search on corn bread and corn pancakes, but, so far, have not come across a recipe that sounds like it could bring the desired result. Nevertheless, I tried out some other recipes I found – at the end of my ‘test series’ I did not even bother with a recipe any more – and ended up with a moderately satisfactory pancake-bread thing. Still, I’d like to try out some more until I’ve found the ultimate corn bread recipe… ;) Am open to suggestions!

#2 Beautiful Butties

Here we have my most recent butties: an omelette butty and what I call a ’sausage turtle’ – a fried and split veggie sausage in a heavily ketchup-ed muffin – sometimes with a layer of melted cheese, fried onions, mustard, pickles or random sauces/vegetables in between. I love butties.

# Improvised Gateaux

I’m really getting into making gateaux. Here we have a somewhat less intricate incarnation of the cake Germans call ‘Jaegertorte’ (Hunter’s Gateau). It was one of my grandmother’s favourite cakes, and she baked it at almost every occasion. I made a smaller version, because we were just three people eating it  (and we did eat all of it). Here is the recipe for a full-size cake:

Mix:
125 g unsalted butter (you can use salted butter if you don’t mind the taste – or use a mixture of both if you want to use up leftovers!)
100 g sugar (I used less at this is really sweet!)
3 eggs
100 g roughly ground hazelnuts
2 tbsp cocoa (or chocolate sprinkle or whatever chocolate-resembling matter you’ve got in the house)
baking powder
50 g flour
a bit of milk

Bake at medium heat (Gas Mark 5-6) for about half an hour – until the sponge is firm-ish and starts to brown.
For the topping: Mix 1/2 – 1 pint of whipped cream with one jar of cranberries/cranberry sauce (Lidl and Aldi have ironically the best one). Spread over the cooled cake and top with chocolate sprinkles or shavings. You can also decorate the cake with any other chocolate decorations like they do in the bakery.

Other variations I’ve seen on the net included adding a layer of egg-nogg liquor, adding rum to the dough or mixing the cranberries with whisk(e)y – just to confirm the stereotype of the permanently pissed huntsman!

# 4 Potato casseroles

Once again, I tried out a recipe from my favourite internet chef, PrincessDiana161! She made a dish called ‘Diana’s Tatas’ which involved subjecting potatoes to a process of boiling and baking at the same time. Basically, the spuds are chopped up into large-ish pieces and put in the oven in a broth made from vegetable stock, oil and spices. As I am always looking for ways of making potatoes more bearable to eat, I had to make this dish. Obviously, I did not have all of the ingredients, so I started messing around with the recipe a bit. I did not have any stock cubes left, for instance, and just used salt and spices instead. I also had no lemons, but limes etc. But the concept, let’s call it ’spiced water plus some oil’ (preferably of the tangy kind) remained the same. Another advantage apart from the great taste: the oven dishes are easier to clean than after plain roast potatoes! The thus-produced potato dish can then be consumed with stuff such as green beans, purple broccoli, veggie sausages or tomato sauce and butter beans… Ah, and the most important stuff in the broth for me is: garlic!! (onions also help)

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Somethingfromanything goes West

April 13, 2009 · 6 Comments

With my Open University student hat on, I got invited to give a talk in the US, so I embarked on my first proper long haul flight to Las Vegas (of all places!). Not being comfortable with just coming over, talking and going straight back, I embarked on a little self-funded tour around the Southwest via hostels and cheap motels. During that trip I learned a lot about American cuisine – the hard way.

On the first day I desperately tried to eat at least half of the enormous portion that got served to me. I learned that the way to deal with it is not to cause yourself severe stomach pain by attempting to consume as much as possible, but to eat as much as you feel like and wait for a friendly person to bring you a container to take the leftovers home for breakfast! This way you also end up paying only once for (at least) two full meals – ha! Make sure you select a dish that you can stomach first thing in the morning.

The next day I learned some more things: if you are offered nice home-made lemonade or desserts, make sure you don’t accept re-fills (Americans seem genuinely worried that they might underfeed you!), however nice they are, because too much sugary stuff – especially in combination with deep-fried or heavy cream containing food – causes untrained stomachs to expel said stomach contents shortly after. It causes huge embarrassment on public transport, I can tell you! Thanks, again, to the lady who gave me a new plastic bag after mine was full…

Likewise, large iced donuts for breakfast, even if they are offered to you for free, are a no-no, unless you want to be in pain for the next few hours. Also, when ordering a plate of vegetables, make sure your food providers don’t add random bits of sausage or bacon for ‘flavor’, because that also causes stomach contents to return if you are a long-term vegetarian. Btw vegetarianism is a more alien concept in the Southwest than extra-terrestrials visiting in UFOs – unless you happen to bump into a Chinese-American Buddhist chef like I did (he didn’t even eat onions and garlic)!

But once I had learned these important lessons, it was all-go – well, mostly! What else did I learn during the journey?

1. Americans eat raw cauliflower with dressing as a salad. While not only the raw cauliflower, but perhaps even more the dressing’s super-thick consistency takes a bit getting used to for a wimpy European, the combination of raw cauliflower/dressing is very successful. I often had a pile of raw cauliflower for lunch (delicious!), also, because there was no other sensible vegetarian alternative. Raw cauliflower tastes much better than the European cooked, baked, pickled or steamed versions. Must continue eating it!
2. Corn pancakes with butter are superb!
3. Corn-syrup seems to be in everything. Corn-batter seems to be around everything.
4. The white fluffy stuff is butter.
5. You could probably survive a whole holiday on eating a (vegetarian!) 7-layer burrito from Taco Bell (price: around two dollars!) a day. But make sure you bring your own orange juice as Taco Bell only serves soft drinks.

6. Food seems to be either really fatty or really low fat (try getting a ‘normal’ live yoghurt to de-traumatise your body!), really sugary/salty or everything sugar/salt free and substituted, really unhealthy or superhealthy. Also, taste (and size!) always seems to be maxed to its absolute limit. Americans seem to like extremes!
7. Subway veggie patties seem to be bacon-flavoured in the US – very off-putting.
8. Mexican food – YES!
9. Ice cream & cookie sandwiches are nice.
10. Green tea and desert fruit ice cream with sweetened cream and cornflakes is also nice.
11. Listening to Leonard Cohen (who I don’t normally listen to much) seems to ease stomach pain. Must be the resonances of his deep voice.
12. Only Americans can think of a dish like ‘pink and orange tiger-striped butternut squash ravioli with tomato sauce’.
13. Date-shakes rock! (and substitute at least one meal)

14. Really healthy and affordable food can be found in ‘hippy’ communities in the desert – or amongst other people’s leftovers in backpackers’ hostels.
15. American vegetables have a different taste. Most notably: tomatoes & carrots. Especially tomato paste.
16. Ordering the largest size costs insignificantly more than the smallest size. Especially noticeable when ordering pizza (small pizza: $11.95, medium 12.49, large: $13 – large being four times as big!).
17. Everything is displayed without tax.
18. There seems to be some really tasty fusion cuisine going on in certain corners of the country. Mexican-Japanese Sushi (with habaneros), Chinese-Italian (seaweed lasagna), Japanese-American (green tea sundae), you name it!
19. According to the gentleman at the Tucson post office, you can eat every plant in the desert – if you know how to prepare it.
20. I learned a bit about how Tohono O’odham people prepare food from various desert plants. Thanks for the recipes, the mesquite meal and the cactus jelly!

The latter insight I gained during a ranger talk at Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. The park is on the grounds of the Tohono O’odham Reservation and is heavily plagued by the US-Mexican border drug war amongst other things. Other that learning about this obvious conflict mostly second hand, it was very interesting to observe what I’d call interactions between different cultural groups (Native American, Mexican, Asian American, Caucasian American, African American and whatever people identify as) in the Southwest. The ones I witnessed were very moving and seemed informed by the desire to learn from each other and to look after each other. I hope this vibe is more wide-spread and spreading!

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Purple Broccoli Pizza & Hostel Cooking

April 10, 2009 · 2 Comments

Unfortuately, I forgot to take a picture of the pizza when it came out of the oven, so here is only a ‘day after’ picture. Once again, I forgot the onions. Other that that, I put purple broccoli, courgettes, capers, mushrooms and tomato-garlic sauce on the pizza and some cheese. The dough recipe can be found here.

The reason why I haven’t posted much recently is that I was away for two weeks. During that time, I stayed at a youth hostel for a few days where you could cook yourself. Being a bit skinned and not having seen any supermarkets in reasonable travelling distance, I was dependent on the local ‘free shelves’. These shelves contained what former residents had left behind for new arrivals to eat. I ended up making spaghetti with a very ‘interesting’ tomato sauce. It actually turned out alright, despite containing a weird mixture of tomato puree, dried dill, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, some Mexican chilli powder mixture, salt pepper, vegetable oil of unknown origin and spring onions (cannot remember whether I put in anything else). I offered it to two other people, and they seemed to enjoy it, too! It’s amazing what can pass as a decent pasta sauce. I just remember at one point mixing oil with different spices and passing it off as pesto ;) Other highlights from the cupboard included millet cereal with soya milk (much healthier breakfast that I had expected!) and lots of ingredients for baking which, combined with the resident waffle iron, made for a delicious snack with maple syrup. Utter luxury from ‘waste’ for the cost of mere manual labour! ;) Of course, I also left a few things on the shelves when I had finally located a local shop for future travellers to make stuff up with!

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Flourless Nut Cake (gluten free)

April 10, 2009 · Leave a Comment

This is one of my favourite cakes – and it also happens to be gluten-free (more by accident than by design). In the UK, it is quite expensive to make as nuts (and eggs) cost quite a lot. Luckily, I often have visitors bringing or sending me nuts from the continent, so I end up with a regular supply. This cake, I made for a birthday party. I can’t remember whether I’ve posted this recipe already. I can’t seem to find it with my search function, anyway…

So, the basic ingredients are:

400g roughly ground hazelnuts (I don’t like the finely ground, dry stuff you get in supermarkets, but you can also use that for a drier, denser texture)
6 eggs, beaten
100-200g sugar (depending on how sweet you like it)
baking powder

That’s it!

Bake for about an hour at about 160-180 degrees Celsius until firm and slightly browned.

I sometimes add other ingredients such as chocolate bits, and my mum often adds ginger. And because she likes the cake more dense, she sometimes adds breadcrumbs and flour. But I prefer the very basic recipe. She also tends to coat the cake with nut or chocolate icing, but I just dust some icing sugar on top. You can also add different kinds of spices to the cake and the dusting (e.g. cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cardamom, ginger).

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